13 Ushuaia and across to Awesome Antarctica.

Three flights with Aerolineas Argentinas of 9 hours, 3 hours and 2 hours, along with a 9 hour stopover took us from Miami to Buenos Aires, to El Calefate to Ushuaia.

Through his open cockpit door the co-pilot was either giving us a friendly
 wave  or about to inappropriately surprise the hostess.
At the start of our 9 hour flight, the hostesses were too occupied in private conversations
 during the safety briefing on life jackets and emergency exits.  This didn't give great
 assurance if everything went pear shaped. 

Ushuaia (nicknamed the "End of the World") is the southern most city in the world, perched down at the bottom of South America, surrounded by the peaks at the end of the Andes Mountains and the Beagle Channel leading to some of the most notorious seas in the world.
It is also the end of Pan American Highway which runs 30,000kms from the top of Alaska, and in many parts is no more than a track.

The world's southern most Santa hat wearing U. 

Unusual architecture wrapped in the last of the Andes. 

Fascinating placement of chimneys.

The chimneys get a great view out the window.

Elevated brick out-house lacking easy access. 

Looks rather precarious considering the winds in this part of the world. 

The Five Brothers Peak stand guard over Ushuaia.  As with many families,
three of the brothers have their heads in the clouds.
There is a memorial at the Naval base to the ship, General Belgrano,
sunk during the Falklands war with Britain in 1982

Swiss influence?

No chance of going wireless here!

"Cousin It" from The Addams Family (travelling incognito without a hat)
had to dodge under the wire leading in towards the red wall.
Not a safe place to walk at night. 

Beautiful mountains, bay and menagerie of roofs. 

Superb lines of the 1943 Saint Christopher, formerly HMS Justice,
which was beached in 1957 in Ushuaia port.  

Cruising yachts from all over the world rest up at Ushuaia during treks around the Horn.
The red yacht, Icebird, is a strengthened aluminium hulled expedition yacht especially designed for ice with impressive insulation, double glazed coach-house and six water tight bulkheads.
There are many activities available for guests; with sea sickness
generally the first shared activity experienced by novice sailors.

Whale tail architecture of the Casino.
This no doubt symbolises the proliferation of whales in this part of the world;
and financial outcome of gamblers. 

Shock/Horror.  Our bill for our cafe light lunch.
Fortunately the 1130 pesos equaled AUD$27.60

TARDIS or Control?
Access is not so easy to gain control. 

Christmas is approaching.

First impressions count, and we were blown away by the appearance and class of our ship, the

Greg Mortimer.

Our first glympse of our ship.
The weather in the area known as "The end of the world" changed
 significantly almost every half hour or so. 

Why the long face?
The Ulstein X bow is designed to cut through waves rather than
crash and ride up over, giving a smoother ride.

Our cabin for 13 nights. So neat, new and practical.

Ensuite to the right with heated floor which enabled clothing to dry overnight. 

The Greg Mortimer bridge contrasted starkly with Swansea bridge. 

An open bridge policy existed, allowing passengers to offer navigational advice.
Carrol can be seen waiting patiently for her orders to be followed. 

The library stocked with polar books and shared computers for photos.
Readers sitting in the proximity of the shelves can be booked during
 rough weather. (Being hit on the head by books!)

Dining in style.
In readiness for rough weather, under each chair is a chain
 and turnbuckle to secure the chair to the floor.
Seat-belts though, were a noted omission. 

This quiet dining location gave great views and a chance to chastise
 anyone not washing hands thoroughly before entering.
The white carnation became red after immersion of the stem in Don's wine.
Comfort is the key, with Carrol wearing woolly socks with non slip pads on the soles. 

Fifteen zodiacs, or rubber ducks transported us all to shore simultaneously. 

It can be readily seen why leaving from South America
 is the preferred option for landing on Antarctica. 

Lectures were always informative.

Life jackets support the head when dropping off to sleep during lectures.
As it turned out, the lectures were not boring enough to induce sleep.

Drake Passage, extending from Cape Horn to the tip of the Antarctic Peninsula and South Shetland Islands, is often known as the Drake Shake.  We were fortunate enough to avoid the nasty weather patterns and hence experienced the Drake Lake, with no more than about 2 to 4m swell.

As twilight approached, the pilot who guided us down the Beagle Channel,
left us as we head out into the Drake Passage. 

Antarctica is off to the south as we take on the Drake Shake or Drake Lake, depending on the weather.  

Petrels and an Albatross were a real treat to watch as they followed our progress.
We learnt that some Albatross continually circumnavigate the world
without landing, covering around 16,000kms.
They exert about the same energy when flying as when on land
 by use of dynamic soaring and slope soaring. 

A Cape Petrel still escorting us. 

The first iceberg was seen on our second day of cruising south, and it wasn't long until we were picking our way through ice.  Some of the bays we sailed into were thick with ice and icebergs.

Absolutely massive!!
One of these dropped in Grahamstown Reservoir would help alleviate
 the drought water restrictions for Newcastle. 

Take special note that the apex on the top of the right hand
 triangular shape is just the tip of the iceberg!!

Getting dressed to head to shore in the Zodiacs was quite an ordeal, comprising long-johns, ski pants, thermal long tee shirt, tee shirt, additional layer, jumper, coat, scarf, beanie liner, beanie, glove liners and gloves, neck liner and scarf, covered by inner coat and over coat. Thick socks, wool inner soles and insulated boots topped it off.
All told, it was all worth the effort as we were never cold, nor did we overheat.  Any time we felt warm, to simply undo the zip on the coat would see the temperature regulated rather quickly.

Landfall on the South Shetland Islands at Barrientos Island was an out of this world experience.  Don's Grandfather was born in the Shetland Islands north of Scotland; and we had been fortunate enough in 2012 to have visited the islands.  Now we have have visited the full set of Shetland Islands, both north and south.

All dressed in readiness for our first shore excursion.
Conformity is important.  

Ideal conditions for landfall.

Barrientos Island at 62.24 South is an ice free island in the South Shetland Island group.

Welcoming committee by Chinstrap penguins.

A duck (rubber) and penguins welcomed us to Barrientos Island. 

Delegation of Gentoo penguins intrigued by a duck on the beach.  

Bewilderment about why a rope has appeared on the beach. 

Communication was difficult without the use of speech and hand gestures. 

Note the feathers on the upright Chinstrap Penguin.
This breed was the most easily identifiable.

Our ship was dwarfed by mountains during most of our trip.
The average elevation of Antarctica at 8,200feet or 2,500m, is higher than
Australia's highest peak of Mount Kosciuszko at 7,310feet or 2,228m.

Head tucked in to allow fit into the photo. 

Skuas are the main land based threat to penguins, living in close proximity and taking every chance to hassle and distract the penguins for an opportunity to grab an egg or chick.

Skua just waiting for the chance of a snack or meal.
Skewered Satay Chicken is a delicacy in some parts of the world.
Skua'd Penguin Chicks are the delicacy in this area.   

Gentoo Penguin in full flight (as much as it could) chasing the Skua away. 

The Skua, instead of moving on, dived and hovered over the penguins, doing its best to create a momentary drop in defence of the nest to gain access to either eggs or chicks. 

Pebble nests, although more geometrically uncomfortable than grass nests,
do not blow away in gale force winds, plus give great drainage.
They are, however, susceptible to theft from other penguins, 

Projection Pooping is a fine art mastered by penguins, keeping their own nests relatively clean.
They simply stand up, lean forward and let it fly!

Nesting too close to a fellow projection poopist does have its drawbacks. 

Penguin poop laced with the red of krill.
The smell of the rookery was the first to hit the senses as we neared shore. 
 We either started to smell the same or just got used to the smell. 

Great example of nests separated to give some relief from projections, raised nests for drainage, walking penguins looking for an opportunity to steal pebbles, and Skua thinking about dinner. 

The sedate looking penguins become really animated when a partner returns to the nest with food, both standing to rock side to side, and singing at the top of their voices to confirm identification.  

In 2012 we visited a bay on the top of the Shetland Islands (north of Scotland) which looked almost identical to this one. 

Walking with purpose burns more calories than simply dawdling. 

The chicks are normally hatched three weeks apart to allow the first to get a head start.
These, however, look almost identical in size. 

Serious about getting every last bit of dinner. 

The efficiency of the Greg Mortimer crew was amazing.
Upon boarding the vessel, all boots were dipped, scrubbed and disinfected
 to ensure nothing was transported elsewhere.
By the time the last rubber duck was unloaded, and passengers had changed clothes, we were underway with all ducks stored on board and the vessel was motoring to the next destination.

Back on board for a cruise past more icebergs and further south to Cierva Cove at 64 degrees south for unbelievable ice formations and beauty.
Culling photos was the most difficult of tasks, hopefully you agree.

More open water sailing and another iceberg.
At first we thought Tasmania had broken its moorings. 

Easing our way into the bay wrapped in blue and white. 

There are few landing sites in Antarctica due to steep rock and ice formations.
The ice cliffs butting the water are at least 100 feet high.. 

A growler given more reason to growl when woken by the ship's wake.
When trapped air escapes from small icebergs or bergy bits, the noise generated
can sound like an animal growling.
Old sailors often were warned by the growling, especially handy in foggy conditions.   

Countless glaciers make landfall even more dangerous than the actual landfall.  

Life can be savage!
A berger joint where a Leopard Seal dined on a meal of penguin.

Optimism or Pessimism?
The penguin could have viewed the occasion optimistically in that it was playing its role in the food chain and sustaining the apex predator: or pessimistically and thought "Why me?"

The Argentinian research base on Primavera Point, Cierva Cove on the Antarctic Peninsula,
is only occupied during the summer months as apparently it gets cool
 and reasonably inhospitable in seasons other than summer.

Argentinian landing barges would have quite a battle forcing their way into shore.
This could be the origin of the term "Argy Bargy"

Unbelievable beauty of ice, glaciers, mountains and sky.
Ninety percent of all Antarctic species are found in Cierva Cove,
although not readily visible due to ice cover. 

Kayaking was an option to explore, however, we opted for the zodiacs
 giving more time on shore to explore the brilliant wildlife.
It is timely to mention that 70,000 Orcas (Killer Whales or Sea Wolves),
about 70% of the world's population, inhabit these waters.
They grow about half again, as long as the kayaks and weigh up to 11tonnes.
In a showdown with Great White Sharks, Orcas win every time;
 being bigger, faster and hunting in packs.

Being thick skinned helps in life, especially for a ship in this environment. The Greg Mortimer has a double hull

 in case the outer hull is punctured, which later proved beneficial. 

This is the view a man overboard would witness as the Greg Mortimer navigates through ice.

Occasional blood on the ice shows that ice doesn't always give safe refuge. 

Glaciers, icicles and granite.
What a mix!

Antarctic mushroom

Cruising under the swords of Damocles was not recommended. 

Enjoying the sunshine as the paparazzi arrive.  

The paparazzi.
A raft of rafts, all rugged up on a beautiful sunny day.
The air temperature was just above freezing as evident by the lack of skin showing.

How far south does one need to go to get some peace?
The easy life in Cierva Cove. 

God's sculptures

GoPro windshield to protect against dinghy wind chill. 

We were amazed that the outboard motors could push through the ice without substantial damage.

The blues were even more vivid in real life.
BB Kings Blues Club in Memphis would have been right at home. 

Just can't get enough of that blue!

Feeling all alone after being given the cold shoulder,
this Gentoo penguin forlornly sings "Where have all the flowers gone!"
Birds of a feather do not always flock together! 

Duck floating over submerged ice from a low iceberg. 

To God be the Glory, great things he hath done!

Our ship debating the chance of making it through the gap. 

A zodiac idles towards an ice cliff.
All zodiacs carried laser distance measurers to ensure none got closer than 200m
 in case of calving of the ice. 

Glacier running over the granite cliffs. 

Ice cave large enough for a symphony orchestra.
Edvard Grieg would have been our composer of choice.  

Ice slabs up 75 storeys high front onto the bay.
This is half again as high as Sydney's Australia Square. 

Evidence of the amount of ice below the water line. 

Peaks over 1,300m or 4,000 feet stand sentinel to the cove.

A swim and running race to the top of the peaks would have utilised
 the Australian Crawl for both disciplines. 

Making a bee line for the zodiac following a report of a seal. 

Cross country skis would have almost done the same job as the zodiac. 

Being alone on the ice makes one appreciate and snicker at one's thoughts. 

Whilst trying not to slide back into the icy depths. 

The wildlife in the near distance; keeping a safe distance for all our benefits. 

Fortunately, our polar plunges on Christmas Day several days later were in an ice free area to avoid head trauma.
In the red jacket is Dr Gary Miller who is the ship's resident expert on all things zoological.  He appears in the credits of the movie "Happy Feet" for his advice on mannerisms, however, he didn't suggest the singing, Mexican accents or tap dancing attributes of penguins.

Sun glasses were ample today.
Snow googles were better for wind and snow.

Shiny smooth rock on ice. 

These steps of Antarctica vary greatly from the Steppes of Russia, although both enjoy cooler weather. 

An ice ship pushing a bow wave as it passes in front of the Greg Mortimer. 

We witnessed some of these tunnels collapsing soon after passing. 

Weather changing, breeze increasing, but the blue remains. 

Glistening like millions of diamonds. 

Don took a similar photo to this featuring a frozen waterfall
 in front of  23,000ft peak Machapuchare in the Himalayas in 1981.
The number of slides taken over several weeks on that 1981 trip probably equaled
 the number of digital photos taken in one day here.  

Brilliant crystal clear ice along with dirt from life as a glacier.

Again different coloured ice.
The breeze has come up giving an unstable photographic platform. 

Magical depth of colour, shade and transparency. 

Reminiscent of Rose (Kate Winslet) from the Titanic, floating on a door as she watches
 the Carpathia about to leave the area; this penguin considers our leaving the bay.
Apologies about the tilting horizon due to a the movement of the duck in the swell, the
unsteadiness of the photographer and the curvature of the earth at these high latitudes. 

As we move on out of the bay the penguin silently sings "My heart will go on!"
What is it with singing penguins in this part of the world?
Titanic and Happy Feet are the movies of choice down here. 

We continue south into serious ice conditions and amazing landscapes, icescapes and wildlife.
Such a contrast to scorching, sunburnt, drought stricken Australia.

Wishing fair winds and a following sea; however, remember a smooth sea does not necessarily make a sailor great.

Cheers, Don and Carrol.