14 Antarctica Part 2. Portal Point, Useful Island and Cuverville Island.

We continue further south into cooler weather combined with snow and wind which really played havoc with the photography. Our appreciation of professional photographers filming in these conditions is really comprehended now, as we had a constant battle with keeping snow off the lens, as once landed, the snow would either ruin the shot as a blob, or would melt due to body temperature and run down the lens.

One of the conditions for cruise ships visiting Antarctica, is that only 100 passengers plus expedition team permitted onshore at any given time.  Our ship carried 120 passengers, including quite a few kayakers, allowing all of us landlubbers to go ashore in a single expedition for a number of hours.

Portal Point was a Continental landing on the Antarctic Peninsula and is one of the few locations along the coast where access to the plateau is possible.  Portal Point was named by the British in 1960 due to being the gateway of the route into the interior of the peninsula.

Dressing as ants always helps in dealing with cold snowy conditions

Southern Sphinx 

Years of weathering form the various shapes and surfaces of the bergs. 

These behemoths were awe inspiring. 

Opera House or horse hoof design with snow flake graffiti.

Turquoise water as a result of the undersea iceberg base.

The formations of these massive icebergs were awe inspiring.  Approaching these in zodiacs, our expedition leader would explain how they were formed by wind, water, and rotation over time.

Difficulties of the south:
picking landing sites and noses. 

Aldi gloves and ski pants playing their role. 

Wave piercing catamaran design

Taking a sun-sight with the GoPro to check position as skipper Gary bravely negotiates our course. 

We didn't see anyone take a tumble despite some slippery, uneven landings.
The high insulated boots kept our feet dry at all times.

Life jackets were compact, designed for inflation only if required. 

Blazing a trail uphill for a view of the continent.
It takes many trekkers to compress a "human highway" in such deep snow.

A zodiac sprints back into our bay through ice and falling snow.

A gentle climb but still hard going. 

1956 foundations of a hut long since gone. 

Stay on your feet and win on points!
Not stepping properly in the compressed footsteps of others often meant a fall into rather deep snow. 

Arriving back to the life jacket buckets for ferrying back to the ship.
The buckets segregate sizes of life jackets to minimize fitting time as snow continues to fall.  

At 64.43 degrees south, Useful Island, so named due to being a useful distance from Ronge Island, a local hang out for early Norwegian whalers.
Here we encountered heavy snow which made photography so difficult, needing continual wiping of the lens, and leading to misting up of the lens.

Chilly conditions allowed drinks on the rail to keep cool as we sailed into the bay.

Kayaks blaze the trail to shore. 

Cruising to shore in the zodiacs, once more we were able to tour through
 a menagerie of  marvelous icebergs. 

An unknown naval ship was seen in the distance as we cruised into a bay for landing.
A few hours later when we were all on shore, a call came over the radios, which all our guides picked up; to leave the area immediately.  When questioned as to why, no answer was received. 

This chap had no concerns about our presence. 

Kayaks made it to shore and negotiate the ice at close quarters. 

Penguin square dance. 

Contrasts of ice and snow colours: from the penguin stained snow,
to the blue bergs, to the white snow in the background. 

Egg soccer.
Falling snow can be seen against the penguin's coat as he leans into the wind.  

On a sunny day, you can see forever.
Not today though!

As a protocol to preserve any life, great care is taken to ensure that moss is not stood on,
only snow or rock.  As it is a struggle for any plant life to survive in this part of the world. 

Lovers stroll hand in hand through the blizzard. 

A skua sweeps in from the top left of the photo in attempt to dislodge the penguins from their nest.
It failed in the attempt. 

Wind-vane. 

Penguin thrill seeker 

Penguin Highways were always a highlight in seeing the way penguins of different breeds share the same tracks.  Long ago they worked out it is easier to follow each other on the compressed snow. 
The alternative often seen, was to belly slide down steeper sections.

A Gentoo penguin is seen blocking the highway as it takes in the sights. 

A Chinstrap penguin heading uphill meets the Gentoo.

The Chinstrap looks for a solution as the Gentoo continues to look at the sights. 

The Chinstrap takes the highroad. 

Before dropping back into the highway and continuing on its way without fuss. 

Example of the brush tail on Gentoo penguins. 

Penguin with pebble donation for the nest.
We enjoyed spending time watching penguins react with one another.  Here we watched a Gentoo penguin collect one pebble at a time, bringing it to the nest.  As the chicks grow, the nest needs to grow.  Penguins establish their nests on rock surfaces, and pebbles need to be collected one at a time, sometimes carried quite a distance.  The diligence of these little guys was mesmerising.

Cuverville Island was a short cruise from Useful Island and supports about 6,500 breeding pairs of Gentoo penguins.  The island was named after a French vice-admiral of the same name despite being associated with vice.

The Hurtigruten Midnatsol from Norway was spied in the distance idling through an ice passage.
We saw only one other ship during our time down south. 

More massive healthy glaciers. 

Note the impending giant future avalanche at the top of the left ridge.

Avalanche in the making which has already started moving downhill.

Penguin at speed, porpoising purposefully. 

Volunteers checking the waters were safe before launching the zodiacs. 

The soft shoe shuffle. 

Beauty beyond words. 

Penguin highway to the upper colonies.
Often penguins would adopt "our highway" as their own, as you can imagine
 it takes a lot of effort from these little guys to make a solid roadway.

Zig zagging up the slope. 

The hardest part of the day is not deciding whether to stand or lie down, but the ground itself. 

What?

Carrol and her GoPro had been sitting quietly waiting for penguins to approach, when instead this gentleman moved in to take a selfie and put himself into the frame.
We were to stay at least 5 metres away from any wildlife, not block penguin highways
and most of all not to touch any wildlife.  Sometimes inquisitive penguins would approach us;
we were to stay still, or move aside.  

Beautiful ice sculptures and ship.

Hark, the herald angels sing!

Showing how to sing with heart and soul. 

Ferry heading back to the ship after several hours ashore. 

Approaching penguins was not allowed, however, keeping still allowed the penguins to approach us. 

Incredible light contrasts. 

Truly incredible in real life. 

Skuas continue to add to the stress levels of penguins, continually being in close proximity to take advantage of any chance of grabbing a chick or an egg.

Skua circling around looking for an opportunity. 

Changing stance and moving in. 

Before being chased off by an irate penguin with attitude. 

In response, the Skua shows equal attitude. 

Before flying off to hassle someone else.

We also moved along, cruising further south to be blown away by the shear beauty of this summer winter wonderland.  Publishing will take place shortly.

Trusting all is well and that our photos are helping take away the cares of the world by seeing the beauty of God's creation.

Cheers,
Don and Carrol.